Lincoln Square, just South of Lawrence Avenue, is International in scope with its array of restaurants and shops. The heart of the community is Giddings Plaza, a lovely gathering spot which often attracts dancers on a warm summer evening.

The best place to enjoy the plaza is Café Selmarie, at 4729 North Lincoln Avenue. Its outdoor café borders one side of the open square. The menu is bistro oriented, but not geographically limited. The range includes bruschetta, gravlax and Maryland crabcakes among starters, while entrees are similarly encompassing.

We began a recent warm evening with bruschetta, piled high not with tomatoes, but caponata, the Italian version of ratatouille. It's a challenge to keep things from toppling off its platform of garlicky crostini.

Café Selmarie's Nicoise salad can be enjoyed as a first course or small dinner. There is no real trick that I know of except the use of quality ingredients and a nice balance among them. The Café scores on all points.

As for more substantial fare, roasted chicken is set with polenta and tasty roasted shallots. The chicken arrives moist and succulent. A pork chop reflects the neighborhood's longtime German influences, with a side of red cabbage, roasted apples and more. Vegetarians will prefer eggplant and cous-cous, with roasted mushrooms and fennel among ingredients. The flavors work nicely together, absorbing the fennel's mild licorice like taste. Other entrees include a fish of the day, a strictly American chicken pot pie, Jumbalaya with Andouille sausage and macaroni baked with a quartet of cheeses.

After all this and a glass or two of beer or wine, don't forget the coffee and the pastry array. You might even want to work off the calories after dinner and take up a Tango dance on the plaza. Expect to spend about $40 a couple or less, plus add ons. Café Selmarie is at 4729 North Lincoln Avenue and has a K/RATING of 19/20.

Ambiance/Decor 4/4 Hospitality 5/5 Food 9/10 Value 1/1